
Cambodian Cacophony
Sunrise with no saving the alarm brings a day already full of light. I was awake long before though, the mosquitoes, heat, neighborhood pig herd, and the Wat concert to thank. But that is a joyful thing because a new day is never like the one before along the streets of Phnom Penh. Pants and button up shirt, sandals, backpack, and pick up the helmet on the way down the stairs, 100 cc’s of power awaits. On the moto and up to the gate, out the gate and into an already churning world. The neighbor’s dogs are doing everything to get in the way as I dodge the random dirt piles and boat-sized potholes; I switch into second and leave all that behind setting up another set of hazards just yards beyond. Chicken hovering near my path to the left and naked child running along the edge of the road to the right, center is the only option but will that oncoming car allow me the alternative? Drop into first and wobble precariously as I squeeze myself between indifferent car and crying child. Tough jam, one in what will be many. Police on corner, maybe they won’t notice my skin and look for a salary. Hang a left at the guesthouse swinging clear of the small hut across the street where the motodops gather and are never up to good. Flash into third and lower my visor the truck carrying a village in its bed greets me with a cloud of dust and smoke. I decide to chance the right pass but think twice when the sidewalk is occupied by a cow, two older ladies in no hurry to move, and a cane juice stand. Lean to the left and blow by the truck going into fourth as I swap electrons with a hard charging Land Rover coming the other way. Turn right and regret that time is short and that I would not be able to stop in for pork and rice. The beggar kids wave at me as I pass asking for the privilege to watch my moto as I eat but I jet on and they turn their attention to the next client. I come to a stop and gaze both ways. Toul Kork is alive and the paved road is a post-apocalyptic terror. The police man on the corner is not armed and therefore doing no good as he waves his baton, his partner knowing better is sitting in a chair in the shade. I test the throttle to confirm power and being my slow path to the right lane. I ride up the left sidewalk and then slowly zig-zag between oncoming traffic, always inches from disaster but never out of bounds with cultural norms. I cross the center line that divides nothing and carve a place out for my passage, elbows sharpened for any who dare tread. There is no time to appreciate the never ending line of shacks along the edge of the road offering me tires, fruit, phone cards, and red light faltering (God bless the speed). Drop into third as the traffic circle spins like a great galaxy offering space only to the brave. Into second as I find the pace and try and avoid the rusted bumper of the 1950’s Peugeot on my six. Soldier’s checkpoint on the left, what they want besides pride is not known but I put into effect my white pass and continue on cutting to the right as I leave the gravity of the circle and let loose into third. Come to a stop at the Chinese stoplights and watch the people find no use for them. Join a breakaway pack that sees red as green and bludgeon our way in a most terrific flying wedge left turn. Shift up to top gear and attempt to keep up with the newer 125cc’s around me. Cut off one of the numberless 1992 Camry’s and get only a smile. Point myself down Rue Nehru and ponder the journey ahead, half a city to go as the first beads of sweat creep out. Cyclo driver plods along trying to keep pace with an ever faster world and I decide to slow down and appreciate a world I love and a people who bless me. Sun beating down, months before rain returns, weak from recent fever, trouble ahead and behind, but all I do now is watch my speed and praise God at 45 kph.


